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An Introduction to
Modern Practical Alchemy III
Tim Scott
This is the last of three articles on modern practical alchemy. These articles try to counteract a lot of bad press and misconceptions about alchemy, and discuss how "old time" alchemy might still be of interest today.
The first article discussed some of the history and philosophical justification for the study of "real" alchemy. We saw how, for several reasons, many writers and groups have appropriated the name "alchemy" for various psychological, occult or spiritual theories.
The second installment looked a little more closely at the underlying principles of the art to prepare for practical work. The intent was to be able to map out a direction for work with an introduction to the basic theory and terminology of alchemy. The next step is to plunge into the actual work.
The "Vegetable" vs. the "Mineral" Paths
As mentioned earlier in this series, we mainly concentrate on the so-called "Lesser Circulation," also called the "vegetable work," or "wet way." Students often overlook that there are two main approaches to the alchemical work: the "wet way" involves the manipulation chiefly of herbal and plant substances and derivatives. The "dry way" is much more difficult and involves work with minerals and metals. This latter is what most think of in connection with medieval alchemists.
Both paths have as their ultimate goal the production of the Philosopher's Stone, that can cure diseases, prolong life, and transmute substances. However, the vegetable way is not only much easier for the beginner, it is also a perfect metaphor or analog to the dry way. Once the adept has success with herbal material, success with minerals and metals is not so far off.
Where Do Alchemists Shop?
Getting started is a lot easier than you might think. Anyone who has ever cooked food is already an experienced laboratory chemist. The familiar processes of the culinary art—measuring, mixing, application of temperature—are the same as those of chemistry. The chef who makes complicated soufflés and sauces or beautiful pastries is equal parts artist and scientist. [An interesting digression regarding "soufflé": Alchemists used the word "souffleur" ("puffer") as a term of scorn for shallow and vain alchemists. The description comes from their frantic working of the bellows to keep the heat up in their furnaces.]
Brewers and winemakers could also easily be alchemists. Books and even kits for both of these are widely available, and I highly recommend them for beginners. Brewing is a bit easier, as the production of satisfactory wines is much harder than palatable beers and ales. In either case, the results of experiments in these fields are enjoyable.
In the last article I recommended a chemistry set as another good introduction to the essential processes of the work. (Unless, of course, you already have experience in lab work from school courses or the like.)
Safety
Safety cannot be over emphasized. Even if you are working with nonpoisonous plants and using simple procedures, there is often a danger of fire or suffocation. Less serious but still very annoying are minor burns, spills, stains, and so forth. It pays to know all you can about materials and procedures before rushing into them. Also, be familiar with safe laboratory techniques, which you can learn from any appropriate textbook.
Selecting the Prima Materia
Prima Materia is an old alchemical term meaning, "first matter." This is the substance the alchemist begins with to produce his desired results. Before starting any experimentation at all you must decide exactly what it is you are trying to accomplish. If you want to experiment to become with laboratory procedures, use the chemistry set discussed last issue. Some simple preparations could be skin lotions, tinctures for magical research (dreaming, clairvoyance, etc.), eupeptics ("digestives"), massage oils, and the like.
Note that the preparation's purpose may be spiritual, magical or psychic rather than physical. Certainly, in the former cases the medical association could never harass you. (As if you don't have enough to worry about, selling any kind of herbal preparation for medicinal purposes can get you in very hot water from various government regulatory agencies.)
Once you have settled on an intention, write it down and select an herb consonant with the desire. For this step you can consult one of many books explaining the associations and attributions of herbs; Scott Cunningham's Encyclopedia of Natural Herbs is one of the best.
If you live far from a place where herbs are sold, your choices may be limited to herbs you can easily "wildcraft" or collect yourself. There are many alchemical advantages to this over buying the herbs from suppliers, but this topic alone warrants many books (which have already been written and to which I refer the interested reader).
For our present purposes it is perfectly fine to buy fresh, organically grown herbs from a reputable seller. It is not only difficult to collect herbs, it takes specialized training to properly collect, prepare and dry them; and only a few herbs are likely to be available in your vicinity at a particular time of year. It is better to rely on professionals.
Think about a minor physical or psychic condition that you would like to make a preparation to correct. A general-purpose tonic is a safe thing to attempt. Or you may wish make a cosmetic experiment—a fragrant addition to a skin lotion, mouthwash or hair shampoo.
The herb you choose will have an important affect on what procedure you follow. Some herbs make excellent teas; others yield a substantial quantity of essential oil, and so forth. Because of this, we will suggest some herbs to get you started.
Plants to avoid
Beware of using the following plants, which have poisonous parts: American mistletoe, autumn crocus, foxglove, celandine (Chelidonium majus), henbane, horse chestnut, jimsonweed, lily of the valley, wild cherry, wild licorice (Glycyrrhiza lepidota), wormwood, larkspur, castor oil plant (beans). This list is by no means complete, so don't use an herb at all unless you have expert assistance, or have positively identified it as safe in a good herbal.
So, Which Herbs Should I Use?
The following list gives a few plants traditionally associated with each of the planets known to the ancients. They believed that preparations made from plants friendly to a certain planet would have the characteristics ascribed to the planet: fire and action for Mars, mental stimulation for Mercury, deep thought and reflection for Saturn, and so forth.
This is only a tiny sampling of much more extensive list that can be found in any classic herbal or, again, Scott Cunningham's books. For more detail on the characteristics of the planets, see any good book on astrology.
Sun Cinnamon, Bergamot, Rosemary,
Common Rue, and Mustard
Moon Speedwell, Mouse-ear, Hyssop,
Nutmeg, Chickweed
Mercury Garlic, Fennel, Valerian, Parsley,
Oregano
Venus Yarrow, Spikenell, Marshmallow,
Mugwort, Catnip
Mars Common Onion, Bryony, Hop,
Sarsaparilla, Tobacco
Jupiter Agrimony, Jasmine, Ginseng, Sage,
Mullein
Saturn Shepherd's Purse, Cornflower,
Horsetail, Fenugreek, Centaury
Spagyric Infusion
An infusion is created simply by soaking material in a solvent. For instance, soaking tealeaves in hot water makes tea. The solvent can be water, alcohol, a vegetable oil (e.g., almond, olive, apricot, olive) or stronger chemicals like ethyl ether or acetone.
This is the simplest procedure of all, yet it admits of great subtly and complexity. There are a myriad of variables to consider: the astrology of collection and preparation, the quantities and lengths of processes employed, the temperature at which the infusion is prepared, the solvent used and so forth. You also can mix herbs together for special purposes.
If you choose to use oils, soak a quantity of herbs in a pure vegetable oil, and set the matter in the sun to steep (often more than two weeks). On a purely chemical level, all that happens is that the oil absorbs the fragrant and other oil-soluble (hydrophobic) volatiles of the herbs. The solar heat is important because it is completely even and gentle. Many of the volatile constituents of herbs and flowers are delicate and would be decomposed or driven off by too high heats. On the esoteric level, many other influences are at work.
Maceration
from Junius, passim
Reagents: 4-8 oz. dried herb, pure grain alcohol. [WARNING! Do not use isopropyl (rubbing), wood or methyl alcohols that are poisonous. In some states you can buy "Everclear" grain alcohol. Here in San Diego 190 proof (95%) alcohol can be purchased in Mexico and legally imported into the US in small quantities.]
Equipment: canning jars (mason jars), hot plate, strainer (muslin cloth for filtering), notebook, commercial juice press or improvisation (if available).
To begin, soak 100 grams of plant material in 500 grams (cc) of 60% alcohol (316cc of 190 proof alcohol with 184cc of distilled water). Use canning ("Mason") jars for the maceration. The wide opening facilitates inserting and removing the plants, and the rubber ring seals the jar hermetically.
Expose the closed jar to moderate heat—this invites creativity. [Be careful heating sealed containers! Enough heat will cause an explosive release of pressure. Never boil anything in a sealed container! —SR] The easiest technique is to use a standard hot plate. The middle setting of a typical hot plate provides an even heat of about 60? C (140? F). Shake the jar vigorously once a day. Let the maceration proceed for up to nine weeks, by which time it should take on a satisfactorily dark color.
Using a strainer, separate the solid residue from the liquid and place the damp solid matter in a press to express as much liquid as possible. Ideally a triturating juice press would be used if you have access to such a thing. Lacking that, you can improvise from some C-clamps and two flat pieces of wood or metal.
Save the filtered liquid in a tightly closed jar, and store in a cool, dark, dry place. The refrigerator is good as long as the bottle is sealed so that moisture can't get in.
Simplified Simple Plant Elixir
After Hurley and Albertus
This project uses a moderate quantity of an herb containing a substantial fraction of essential oil. A very popular choice is lemon balm (Melissa officinalis). Like many members of the labiatae family, it contains a large proportion of aromatics and is traditionally used in folk healing.
Reagents: 500 grams (1 lb.) dried lemon balm and sufficient ethyl alcohol (190 proof, if available. Otherwise you can use 151 proof rum, 90 proof brandy, or 100 proof vodka).
Equipment: mortar and pestle (optional), wide mouth glass bottle with lid (approx. 2 liters or 2 qt.), Glass bottle (approx. 2 liters, a Mason canning jar is fine, if a bit small), fireproof bowl or kettle, electric hot plate, fireproof calcining dish, fisher burner (camp stove, or propane torch apparatus), flask (250 ml or so), gloves or pot holder (for handling hot dishes and containers). You can obtain the lab apparatus at chemical supply houses. Look for them in the yellow pages and make sure they sell retail before showing up on their doorstep. If you are connected with a high school or college, you can probably get some pointers on acquiring equipment from a helpful person in the chemistry or biology department.
Step 1: Maceration
1) In the future, you can work with freshly collected herbs, or herbs you dry yourself. For this experiment, however, it is easiest (and perfectly acceptable) to buy herbs from a dealer.
2) Grind the dried herb by either rubbing it between the hands or grinding it in the mortar and pestle.
3) Place the ground herb in the glass jar. Pour the alcohol over the herbs and tightly close the jar. The alcohol should cover the herb but fill the jar no more than halfway. (Note that the higher the proof the alcohol is, the easier it can escape. Seal the lid with wax to prevent this problem.)
Step 2: Digestion
4) Put the jar on the hot plate. If possible, adjust the temperature of the hot plate so that it is not too hot to put your hand on.
5) Try to find a place for the jar and hot plate where the jar can receive morning sunlight.
6) After the liquid is colored strongly green (several days to a couple of weeks) open the container and pour the liquid into another container. Save this, you will use it in step 12.
7) Take the alcohol-soaked matter from the bottle and put it into a fireproof dish or kettle. Take the kettle outside and ignite the matter. Since alcohol-soaked, it will burn, with much of pungent smoke.
Step 3: Calcination (oxidation/burning)
8) Take the burned matter and place it in a fireproof calcining dish. Place a screen over the dish to minimize the loss of ash.
9) Subject the ashes to heat from the Fisher burner (or other arrangement) until they take on a lighter color. As you calcine them, occasionally remove them from the fire and grind them in the mortar, then return them to the fire.
Step 4: Digestion
10) Subject a 250 ml flask to oven heat (300? F (150? C) or so).
11) Take the still-hot ashes from the calcining dish and add to the flask.
12) Take the liquid ("menstruum") from step 6 and pour it into the flask. Stopper it tightly.
13) Subject this flask to moderate heat for two weeks.
14) You can optionally open the flask at this point and evaporate the liquid, as the Salt is supposed to have absorbed all the requisite essence by this point. The Salt is dissolved in alcohol and used as described below.
15) You can also calcine this Salt, combine with the ashes from step 11 and go through steps 12-13 again.
The elixir is then ready for use. Never ingest it undiluted. "A few grains of the Salt together with a teaspoon of the Essence in a glass of distilled water will produce exhilarating results." In medieval recipes, the medicine was often administered in wine, brandy or other spirits.
The Flowers and Oil of Benzoin
From Encyclopaedia Britannica, 1st ed.(1771)
The flowers and oil of Benzoin are not for consumption. They can be all or part of magical "fluid condensers" (as described by Franz Bardon, Scott Cunningham and others).
Reagents: Benzoin powder (30-60 grams (1-2 oz.), sufficient ethyl alcohol (190 proof, if available. Otherwise you can use 151 proof rum, 90 proof brandy, or 100 proof vodka)
Equipment: deep earthen pot (medium size crock pot), large pieces of thick white paper, large goose feather, mortar and pestle (optional), wide mouth glass bottle with lid (approx. 2 liter/2 qt.), small wide mouth glass bottle (6-25 cc (2-8 oz.) with stopper, glass retort, heatproof mortar and pestle, fisher burner (camp stove, or propane torch apparatus), gloves/tongs/pot holders (for handling hot dishes and containers).
For this project you will need a fairly deep earthen pot with a rim (for instance, a crock pot). Also acquire some large pieces of thick white paper from an art supply store, so that you can make a few conical caps to fit over the crock-pot.
Put the benzoin you intend to analyze ion the pot. Cover it with a large conical cap of very thick white paper, and tie it on under the rim. Set your pot in a sand-bath (on a hot plate), and warm it gently until the benzoin melts. Continue the heat in this degree for an hour and a half. Then untie the paper cap and take it off, shaking it as little as possible. You will find all the inside of the cap covered with a great quantity of beautiful white shining flowers in the form of little needles. Brush them off gently with a feather. Put them in a bottle and tightly stopper it.
As soon as you take off the first cap, cover the pot with a second just like it. In this manner go on until you perceive the flowers begin to grow yellowish. Stop at that point.
The matter left in the pot will be blackish and friable when cold. Pulverize it with a mortar, and distill it in a glass retort with a graduated heat. There will come over a light oil, with a fragrant scent, but of a very small quantity, a little of an acidic liquor, and a great quantity of a red, thick oil. Remaining in the retort will be a charred, spongy substance.
Evolving the Fixed Caustic Alkaline Salt from Any Herbal Substance
also from Britannica
The fixed vegetable Salt is not for consumption. It is the beginning of an Herbal Magistery (the "vegetable Philosopher's Stone"). The Salt is combined with plant Mercury (alcohol or vinegar) and plant Sulfur (aromatic or characteristic oils, essences and flavors of a plant). There is not room to explain the full process in detail, see
Plant Alchemy, by Junius.
Reagents: Any desired herb well dried (15-45 grams (4-16 oz.))
Equipment: deep earthen pot (medium size crock pot), filter paper, crucible, heatproof or metal mortar and pestle, wide mouth | 
